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For years after Sri Lanka emerged from its bloody civil war, there was much talk about its food, tea, culture, beaches and...leopards. A remarkable density of leopards - especially given the relatively small size of this island nation and how densely populated it was with humans. So of course, I had to go take a look for myself.
To maximise our chances of leopard spotting, we booked a three-night stay at Resplendent Ceylon's Wild Coast tented lodge, an architecturally spectacular property that nestles in thick bush on a sandy promontory looking out onto a tempestuous ocean. No swimming is allowed there due to the beach's dramatic drop-off and we noticed an almost constant rip. No unaacompanied walks are permitted on the property either - and after dark, you're escorted back to your room, even if this is just a few metres from the restaurant.
The restaurant and bar's spectacular ceiling
Our gorgeous "cocoon", which is basically an air-conditioned cabin sheathed in wood, glass and canvas
From personal experience, this is completely justified as we went on two guided nature walks with our friendly and knowledgeable guide Darshana. On the first, we were forced to walk along the water's edge as we were given the evil eye by a grumpy male buffalo sunbathing on the sand. On the second, we hustled to safety atop some boulders just seconds before a foraging bull elephant aggressively charged a trio of dogs protecting their patch.
No food is allowed in rooms as langurs and macaques are prone to ram raiding your luxury cocoon. Keep the door tightly closed! We also had the restaurant's resident rat snake visit us at breakfast, and a huge monitor lizard took his nap under our veranda one sweltering afternoon. Wild Coast definitely lives up to its name so don't expect this place to be like any other destination you've been to in Sri Lanka. And if you've been anywhere in Africa on safari, then you already know the drill.
The landscape around Wild Coast lodge is stunning - and best appreciated on a guided nature walk
One of the key differences between an African luxury lodge safari and one at Yala National Park is the sheer volume of vehicles. There are no private reserves here and vehicular access is limited to a morning and an afternoon slot (with no visitors allowed at lunchtime or after dark). Fortunately, self-driving is not permitted; all visitors must employ a "qualified" driver-guide of which there must be hundreds, who transport their clients from accommodations in villages and towns sometimes many hours away from Yala.
Peak hour at Yala National Park
With only one road in (and many side roads washed out when we visited in April 2025), it seemed like every time we ventured into the park there was a traffic jam and noxious clouds of diesel fumes. If there was so much as a whisper that a leopard had been seen, many dozens of vehicles jockeyed for position, making so much engine noise you just could not fathom how a secretive cat like a leopard would risk coming out into the open. Our guide Darshana, however, assured us that Yala's leopards were well accustomed to safari vehicles, and would often sit out on rocks to sun themselves in full view of human spectators.
Across our three game drives (across three separate days), we managed a fleeting glimpse of two reasonably sized individuals in the bushes, and saw another from a distance, slinking across the main road - which was deserted that afternoon - before it melted away into the bush.
So, perhaps if you're here only for leopards you might be better off going to Botswana or Zambia's South Luangwa National Park.
Yala's elephants received much attention too, and I was surprised at how habituated many of the small resident herds were to vehicles. Even mothers with their young babies allowed fairly close viewing, and a bull in musth also did little more than make small, disapproving noises at us before going back to his foraging. Of course, there have been many reports of Yala's elephants attacking vehicles for food, but if you go with a good guide like the ones at Wild Coast, they keep a respectful distance.
If you are a birder or enjoy watching our avian friends, Yala National Park is an absolute delight. Herons, storks, stilts and spoonbills are found in practically every body of water, while kingfishers, bulbuls, fantails, junglefowl, waterfowl, peafowl and bee-eaters are a common sight in the lush vegetation. We also saw hornbills, a hoopoe, a majestic sea eagle and several handsome hawk eagles in the tree canopy. It was a pleasant surprise that in Yala - and this is true of many places in Sri Lanka including Kandy and Hatton - many birds just aren't that shy. The island is also a wintering ground for many European and Asian species - as I was there in April, most migrants had already left, but there were more than enough species to make for interesting viewing.
Yala National Park also has healthy populations of spotted and sambar deer, primates, plenty of amphibians, reptiles, mongoose and jackal - all which can be fairly easily found if you're not singularly focussed on leopard.
Aside from our extremely luxe cocoon - complete with plunge pool, claw-footed tub and canopy bed - another highlight at Wild Coast was the food. Breakfast always came with a bread basket, fresh squeezed juices and tropical fruit plate - you were then asked whether you wanted eggs, pancakes or hoppers! The Sri Lankan "rice and curry" lunch option was a mouthwatering collection of small dishes - including a lip smacking eggplant moju - plus sambol and pickles, while the dinner menu offered all kinds of delicious local and international dishes, prepared with the freshest seasonal ingredients and beautifully presented. You'll never go hungry or thirsty here, so bring an appetite!
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